Before digging in, let’s define the terms . . .
The Mono Rig
The Mono Rig is a long leader fly fishing system. It is used for fishing nymphs on both a tight line and under an indicator, and for fishing streamers, wets, dry flies and dry dropper rigs. The thick leader butt section of the Mono Rig functions as a fly line substitute. Contact, control and strike detection are dramatically improved by taking away the weight and sag of a fly line, providing the angler a better opportunity to convincingly present flies to a trout.
A Mono Rig Formula
This long leader rig is just one example of what works. It is tailored to my own needs, to suit the conditions that I encounter daily. It’s also designed to be modular. I regularly remove the 1X Rio section and use the Amnesia and Gold Stren for my sighter. I often swap out to a shorter 20lb butt section. And I make many modifications to the tippet section while on the water. This formula is a starting point for your own exploration.
24 feet — 20 lb Maxima Chameleon
2 feet — 10lb Maxima Chameleon
— Tippet Ring (1.5 or 2mm) —
12” — 12lb Red Amnesia
12” — 10lb Gold Stren
14″ — 1x Rio Two Tone Tippet Material (Optional)
— Tippet Ring (1.5 or 2mm) —
36″ — 4X Fluorocarbon Tippet
— Tag for upper fly —
20″ — 5X Fluorocarbon Tippet
— Point Fly —
Now let’s get to the Q & A . . .
Question: Is it hard to learn to cast a Mono Rig?
Answer: Not at all. My young sons fish the Mono Rig because it’s easier than managing fly line (and because they get better drifts). Good, accurate casting with a Mono Rig starts by emphasizing the power stroke between ten and two. The rest falls in line pretty easily.
Question: How do you cast the Mono Rig?
Answer: It’s really very similar to casting fly line. In fact, at a distance, the long line angler often looks like he’s casting fly line. Remember, the Mono Rig is a fly line substitute. Casts are varied, of course, depending on the weight of the fly and the distance to the target. But standard fly casting strokes, with hard stops at ten and two make up the basic cast.
False casting should always be kept to a minimum.
Slightly over-weighting the rig helps at first.
Start close. Learn to tight line nymph within fifteen feet. Only then go for longer distance. And when you have a good handle on tight line nymphing, that’s the time to learn the Mono Rig for indicators, dry dropper and streamers.
Rods and Reels
Question: Can I fish the Mono Rig on shorter or heavier rods? I have a nine footer?
Answer: Absolutely. I tight lined on an 8.5 foot five weight for many years, because that’s what I had. I still use it a lot (it’s my small stream rod now) because I like it.
There is no reason not to try the Mono Rig on whatever rod you already own. Longer rods allow you to reach further out, and that helps keep line off the water. Lighter rods with more flexible tips help the angler feel the rod flex under lighter weights, and that’s good too. But I also tight line at night on a stiff six weight. Any rod will do the job if you adapt.
Question: I’ve read that you use 4 and 5 weight rods that are 9-10 feet long. Why don’t you use lighter and longer rods? They fish long leaders better.
Answer: Well, I cannot agree that they fish better. But they do fish differently.
Two and three weight, extra long rods have grown in popularity in the competition circles, in part, because the thin, flexible tips are better for playing small fish without them coming unbuttoned. These rods also flex more under the relatively light payloads of nymphing with small flies.
In short, they are specialized rods. I prefer a general rod that gives me the freedom to throw a pair of heavy streamers in the morning, fish a light dry dropper in the afternoon, and fish a tight line indicator rig in the evening. Again, for me it comes back to versatility.
Question: I hate when the mono slips through my reel spool. How can I stop that?
Answer: Three ways: stretch the butt section before you fish it, use a pinky cradle when reeling in, or use a full cage reel like a Sage 3850.
The mono pull through happens when the butt section slips into the crack between the frame and the spool of the fly reel. Some reels have a larger gap than others. And the longer you use a reel, the wider that gap can become. On some reels with tighter tolerances, the mono pull through problem is negligible.
Full cage reels eliminate the problem, but the extra frame piece adds weight to the reel. Sage solved that issue by using carbon fiber for the spool on the 3850. But it is no longer manufactured. To my knowledge, the 3850 is the only trout sized full cage reel light enough to be a viable solution for anglers using 2-5 weight rods.
But again, using a pinky cradle solves the mono pull through problem, if you can develop the habit.
Question: How long should the sighter be? How thick should it be?
Answer: It really depends on what you want to achieve and what material your sighter is. But 16-24 inches of straight mono is a good starting point.
A short sighter of 0X may be a good option for turning over dry dropper rigs. A longer sighter of 3X may be harder to see, but there’s a good middle ground too.
Questions: The new bi-color tippet material is soft and flexible, so strike detection is better. Why would you still use materials like Amnesia and Gold Stren?
Answer: I do agree that a more supple sighter can signal more to the angler. It shows contact with the nymphs and shows angles better than stiff material. (That’s why a twelve inch backing sighter is so deadly). But with that softness — that flexibility — we lose some ability to push a fly to the target. It makes dry dropper fishing tougher, and it makes pushing a small Dorsey Yarn Indy into a breeze more difficult. For both, a stiffer sighter makes life easier. So the challenge is to find a middle ground.
In the Mono Rig formula above, you can see that I prefer to taper my sighter. Essentially, I use two sighters connected to each other (the Amnesia and Gold Stren is one, and the Rio Bi-Color is the other). Most often, I leave both sighters connected, ending with the 1x Bi-Color. But when I plan to do a lot of tight-line to the indicator fishing, or when want to use a larger more air resistant fly for dry dropper, I often take the Rio Bi-Color out and use the thicker, stiffer sighter.
Question: What’s your favorite sighter?
Answer: This one is easy — the Backing Barrel with a tag.
I often include backing barrels into multiple parts of my rigs. Barrels with tags are super visible, while also signaling very subtle takes that neither straight mono nor knot tags (bunny ears) can.
I rarely use the Backing Barrel as my only sighter, however. I prefer to mount a barrel with a single, inch long tag on a piece of colored mono, where all of that functions as my sighter.
Question: My friends say I can’t use split shot when I’m tightlining/euro nymphing. Is that true?
Answer: No, that’s definitely not true. Tight liners for decades have used split shot to great advantage. But these days, tungsten beads provide the opportunity to build enough weight on a hook that even small flies can get down in heavier current.
It cannot fairly be called “euro nymphing” if you use split shot, but that’s another discussion.
Both weighted flies and split shot have their own set of advantages. Unless local laws forbid it, I use every tool available. Why wouldn’t you?
I regularly use both split shot, weighted flies and a mix of both.
Last time | Next time
In future articles I’ll address Mono Rig questions about each of the styles: tight line, tightline to the indicator, dry dropper and streamer styles with the Mono Rig. I’ll also mix in some general questions that pop of frequently.
And if you haven’t read part one of this series, back up and take a look at Lines, Riggin and Skeptics.
If you have questions you’d like answered and added to the Mono Rig FAQ, post in the comments section below or email me.
Fish hard, long liners.
Enjoy the day.
T R O U T B I T T E N