Three Parts of an Ideal Indicator Leader
I’m not much of a gear guy. I demand a solid pair of waders, and I’m picky about my boots, but I don’t obsess over rods and reels. I have what I need, I guess. I am a leader junkie, though, and I have been since the beginning. Early on, I understood how critical leader design is. For presenting the fly, specific material and taper matters a lot.
I’ve never liked trying to make one leader do everything, either. The inherent compromises in a do-it-all leader are too great — performance for each tactic suffers. And I know many anglers who agree; they carry both a long leader for tight line nymphing and a dry fly leader. After all, there’s a world of difference in the expectations for those two styles.
But here’s the thing: Indicators are often added to our leader as an afterthought — leading to yet another compromise. We’re left with a tool that is not well suited for the job. It works, but it could be better.
So, for many years I’ve carried a third leader dedicated to indicator nymphing. And built into the leader are three features which are specifically up to the task of floating nymphs under an indy.
Here’s the Indicator Leader
24-48″ — .017” Maxima Chameleon
18″ — .015” Maxima Chameleon
12″ — .013” Maxima Chamleleon
8″ — .010” Maxima Chameleon
18″ — 1x Rio Bicolor Sighter material, 10# Gold Stren, or something similar
— Tippet Ring (2mm)
24” — 3X Fluorocarbon (the Indy mounts here)
24-48” — 4x Fluorocarbon
Three elements make this leader specifically designed for indicator nymphing: butt section, sighter (colored line section) and 3X fluorocarbon. Let’s go over each, from the top, down.
Most manufactured, tapered leaders have butt sections of .022” in diameter or larger. Common wisdom says the larger butt section is needed to transfer power from fly line to leader — that the thicker butt section turns over heavy rigs easier. I simply don’t find it necessary.
Twenty pound (.017”) Maxima Chameleon is stiff material that lays flat once stretched. The flexibility of .017” Chameleon more closely matches the flexibility at the end of a 3 to 6 weight fly line. And that’s important.
I use .017” Maxima Chameleon for the butt sections of most all my leaders. It carries plenty of turnover power, but it sags less than thicker butt sections because it weighs less. While it may seem slight, the difference between four feet of .017” vs .022” is significant. Thicker line sags more. And sag equals drag.
I cast nymphing rigs as close to my position as possible (often with little to no fly line out of the guides) and the lighter .017” Chameleon allows for more control and less sag than a traditional .022” butt. It matters.
I list the butt section as 24-48 inches because it’s variable. It should suit your own needs. Match it to your river.
One major benefit to tying your own leaders is the ease of adapting them. Often, I cut the butt section of .017″ Chameleon to under two feet. And on the following trip I may lengthen the butt section to four feet, just to suit the conditions.
There’s one thing I always say about using a sighter: “Why wouldn’t you?”
A simple piece of colored monofilament built into the leader provides a wealth of information about the leader’s position in the drift and the flies at the end of the line. Sighters are commonly used with tight line nymphing leaders but aren’t so common beyond that. Why not? Sighters are extremely helpful in indicator leaders as well.
I often stay close to the trout and fish the indicator leader with little or no fly line out of the guides. In that case, I stay tight to my indicator after the cast. Meaning, I keep all of the leader off the water, up to my indicator. And the sighter dramatically improves my visibility in doing so. It’s easy to watch for the colored line, behind the indicator, and keep it off the water’s surface as much as possible.
At greater distances, when the leader must lay on the water, I can often see the sighter on the surface. Once again, the colored line gives me a visual to rely on. Because I can see the speed, drag or curling of the leader by watching the sighter on the water, it helps me to know if and when I should mend the line.
The 3X Fluorocarbon
Most anglers use standard fly shop leaders and place the indicator at whatever depth necessary to reach the bottom. That seems to make sense, right? Unfortunately, the indy is often placed on the taper or even high up on the butt section. And without a doubt, the drift suffers. Here’s why . . .
When multiple diameters of line are under the water, the current pushes each of those diameters with a different force. The .012” section in the middle of a taper takes nearly twice the force of .007” (the diameter of 4X). And just like butt section diameters, it matters.
The best nymphing rigs have only one diameter of tippet under the water. So the current pushes on all of the line at an even rate (kinda). This is one of the key principles in the Mono Rig and most tight line nymphing leaders: just one diameter of tippet is under the water.
With my favorite indicator leader, however, I cheat on this principle, just a bit.
I prefer to mount the indicator on a 24 inch section of 3X, sliding it up and down within those two feet to adjust for depth. Beyond that is the 4X fluorocarbon (where I attach the nymphs). That way, if I must break off flies on a stubborn snag, I don’t lose the whole rig. The indicator stays with me, as the flies break off at their 4X knot or the 3x to 4x junction.
Note: I know many anglers prefer to nymph with 5x or even 6x. If that’s you, then sub out the 3X for 4X and mount the indy there (with the remainder of the tippet ending in 5X or 6x). The idea, though, is to keep the diameters as close as possible, so the current’s influence is close to even on the two different lines. It’s a compromise.
I should mention that I never go under 4X for the two foot section beyond the sighter (where the indy mounts). And I always use fluoro. Fluorocarbon sustains less damage from sliding indicators. And 3X or 4X can take a hell of a lot more abuse than 5X.
As I mentioned above, I carry three leaders, and each is specifically designed for a purpose. Normally, I change to whatever leader suits the tactic I’m using most. But I also adapt each leader and fish it with other tactics. There’s always some mixing and matching going on.
For example, I use the Mono Rig for a lot of tasks beyond tight line nymphing. One of my go-to modifications is to add an indicator to the Mono Rig. And I fish it that way often. Likewise, when using a dry leader, I occasionally clip off the dry and add a nymph. Then I may add an indicator. Or sometimes I drop a small nymph behind the dry. Mix and match.
The point is, I adjust to suit the conditions. All three leaders I carry have their strong suit — their intended use. And all three leaders can be adapted to other styles.
For reference, here are the other two leaders:
That’s a Wrap
There you have it: Three parts of an ideal indicator leader (as I see it, anyway).
I know that changing leaders is a pain in the ass to many anglers, So I’ll suggest the method outlined here:
Loop to loop sucks. And this method allows for streamlined changes in about a minute.
So change leaders more often. And if you’re fishing indys build these three parts into your leader, and use a tool that really fits the work in front of you.
Fish hard, friends.
Enjoy the day.
T R O U T B I T T E N