troutbitten tippet spools
Tips/Tactics

Let’s talk about tippet — Three questions about the end of the line in a fly fishing rig

on
August 9, 2017

I’ve had old timers tell me that leader and tippet technology is the biggest advancement in fly fishing over the last half-century. Within my own twenty-five years of fly fishing, I’ve seen fly shop wall space grow to include tippet spools of nylon and fluorocarbon in all X sizes (sometimes in half sizes too), with most manufacturers offering multiple options for stiffness and breaking strength in each diameter.

It’s all gotten a little complicated, I suppose. And my friends at TCO tell me that fielding confused questions about tippet is a daily chore. So let’s answer three important questions about tippet. What type? (Nylon vs Fluorocarbon.) What size? (How thick of a diameter is best?) And how long should your tippet section be?

Note: this article is not intended to be a comprehensive write-up for all things tippet. Google search will supply you with that. Instead, I’ll give you a real world, stream-level account of what works for me and the Troutbitten guys.

It’s all monofilament

Real quick, just for clarity, both fluorocarbon and nylon are monofilaments. So yes, fluorocarbon tippet material is monofilament, and so is the regular stuff we all used until about a fifteen years ago — that’s nylon. Using the term “monofilament” for nylon is a holdover from way back when single strand polymers were first introduced and took over for gut leaders. So yeah, we can move on from that now.

Nylon or fluorocarbon?

I’m a skeptic at best and a cynic at worst. So when the shiny ads for fluorocarbon monofilaments appeared in my fly fishing magazines, I paid no attention but to chuckle and turn the page. I was sure I had no use for them.

For nymphing …

A decade ago I learned about euro nymphing, and I started fishing and adapting the Mono Rig to my own style. All the euro-nymphing guys I learned from swore by fluorocarbon, yet I resisted. Nylon worked well for me. I was used to it. I had a stockpile of the stuff, and it was much cheaper. I’m a fisherman, after all, and inherent in that term for me is a do-it-yourself nature with an urge to cut corners.

But I’m also an open-minded realist. On one warm fall day the plastic clasp of my tippet stack broke. I lost every spool and was left with no terminal tackle. Two miles from the parking lot, I turned to Sawyer, a long-time fishing friend, with my hand out. “I’d like to try your fluorocarbon now please,” I said sheepishly.

Sawyer handed me his stack, with 3x-6X fluoro, and I nymphed with it for the rest of the day.

It took no time at all. Perhaps an hour later, and I was sold. I discovered that fluorocarbon has an uncanny ability to untangle, and that provided a significant advantage over nylon. I had slung around two-fly nymph rigs for years, and in a full-day of fishing, there are inevitable tangles that get the best of everyone. (Don’t let any jackass tell you differently.)

I’d come to believe that ninety percent of the time, the mess was best solved by cutting off the rig and starting over,. But I learned something that day. The same tangles in fluorocarbon seem to fall out of their vexing loops and twists with minimal effort. In short, using fluoro keeps me fishing more and frustrated less, and you gotta love that.

READ: Troutbitten | You’re in too Far Now

Since that day, I’ve tried many brands of nylon and fluorocarbon for nymphing, and I strongly prefer fluoro. It’s naturally stiffer than nylon, and for me, that’s the line I want for nymphing.

Some of the modern fluorocarbons aren’t stiff anymore. I prefer high quality fluoro that is slightly stiff, but still has the right amount of flexibility. Yes, I want it all (and I want it now).

I recently read in Jonathan White’s book, Nymphing the New Way, that he prefers Stroft, a supple nylon material. Because this is fishing, there are about a hundred different opinions and twice as many variations that work. I don’t want a soft material for nymphing. I like slightly stiff, flexible fluorocarbon.

Also, I don’t care about the fluorocarbon property of being nearly invisible to fish underwater. In my rivers, I’m not so sure that the refractive index of a monofilament matters. (Likewise, I don’t know that the diameter of tippet matters to the fish either).

I nymph with fluorocarbon because it tangles less and because it’s much more durable against things like rocks and split shot than nylon.

Rocks like that can really tear up nylon tippet. Photo by Pat Burke.

For dry flies …

I still prefer the flexibility of nylon for dries. To me the best dry fly tippet is as soft as I can find it — super supple. I want the tippet section to lay out in s-curves at the end of the cast, providing the dry with plenty of slack. Read: Dry flies need slack 

That is exactly what I don’t want for nymphs.

How thick?

This one might be easy.

Generally, I use the thickest tippet I can get away with but still have good movement to the fly.

Picture this: a #18 Blue Winged Olive tied to 3X tippet has no freedom of movement. It’s motion is limited by the stiffness of the 3X. But a #6 Beadhead Wooly Bugger tied to 3X has plenty of available motion,and looks natural in the water.

There are general formulas for matching tippet size to fly size, and that’s a good place to start. Just remember that the tippet needs to be thick enough to cast the fly, to defeat the wind resistance of a dry and manage the weight of a nymph, streamer or wet. But the tippet should also be thin enough to allow the fly to move at the knot.

#18 BWO Comparadun on 3X tippet. Just not enough chance for the fly to move. Use 5X or 6X instead.

Many competition anglers nymph with 6X or even 7X. That allows for plenty of motion on the fly, even with tiny nymphs. And when casting nymphs on a tight line, the weight of the nymphs or split shot does most of the casting work, so tippet turnover is not an issue.

More importantly, competition anglers choose thin diameter tippets like 6X or 7X because thinner lines slice through the water better — they incur less drag. It may seem quite a stretch to believe that 6X can be more drag-free than 4X. But when you try it, the difference is obvious. Since 6X has less surface area, it’s pushed around by the currents less (it cuts through the water better). It drags less and sinks quicker. That matters, especially to competition anglers.

All decisions have a trade off, though. I care more about landing the trout of a lifetime than I do about landing a few more fish in a day, so I still nymph with the largest and strongest diameters I can get away with. I like 4X and 5X fluorocarbon for most nymphing. When I tie on a #18 or #20 trailer, I often use 6X. Tippet breaking strengths are stronger than ever these days. You can go thin when you need to.

For dry flies I want soft, supple, flexible material, so I use nylon from 3X to 6X. For big Stimulators and PMX patterns, I like 3X, but I still want the soft flexibility of nylon.

Some guys use fluorocarbon for dries because it sinks into the surface a bit, causing less shadow. That’s the kind of thing my grandfather liked to call, “flying too low.” Thankfully, the trout I fish for aren’t usually that picky. If they are, I tip my cap and find the next hungry trout.

Personally, I don’t like the effect of a sunken leader. When picking up for the next cast, a sinking tippet tends to draw the fly down into the surface, sometimes creating a pop as it goes under and quickly comes back up, flying off toward the backcast.

Last point on tippet thickness. Some flies twist a tippet that’s too thin. It can happen with large dry flies. And I’ve encountered the unwanted twist while swinging Harvey Night Flies, so I use at least ten pound Maxima Chameleon for those flies at night. Some streamer designs can do the same thing. Trout that are attacking streamers and big night flies aren’t leader shy, but they may be the fish of a lifetime, so again, I use the heaviest diameter I can get away with.

These Harvey Pushers can really twist a thin tippet, so I use at least ten pound Chameleon.

How long?

Last question. How long should the tippet section be?

Again, I recommend going as long as you can get away with. I frequently use a tippet section that’s 4-5 feet long for the terminal section of my dry leader. All that extra-soft tippet gives me great s-curves and plenty of slack.

There’s a limit to what an angler can control, of course. And ten foot tippet sections are impossibly inaccurate. There’s a boundary for every situation. I go right up to it and use the longest tippet section I can still control with precision.

When fishing streamers or wet flies on a swing, there’s not much need for long tippets. Yes, long and thin tippets will get you a little deeper, but depths with swinging or stripped flies is more easily achieved with weight, casting angles and retrieve speeds.

However, dead drift nymph fishing or using old school streamer tactics can greatly benefit from longer tippet sections. Remember the principles mentioned above, that thinner tippets take on less drag from the currents? Likewise, multiple diameters of monofilament (tapered leaders) under the water create the unwelcome situation of a leader being pushed around by varying degrees.

So for dead drifting, I use tippets long enough that just one diameter is under the water (two, at the most). The currents then act evenly across the entirety of the tippet section under the water, improving the dead drift and lending more control over the rig.

Cliffs Notes

— Nylon for dries. Fluoro for nymphs and streamers.

— How thick? As thick as you can get away with.

— How long? As long as you can get away with, for dries. And for nymphs, as long as necessary to keep one diameter of tippet under the water.

I know that tippet preferences are personal. So share your own discoveries or disagreements in the comments section below.

Fish hard, friends.

Joey

Enjoy the day.
Domenick Swentosky
T R O U T B I T T E N
domenick@troutbitten.com

 

Click here for details.

 

Tips / Tactics

Read more Troutbitten Tips and Tactics

TAGS

30
What do you think?

14 Comment threads
16 Thread replies
6 Followers
 
Most reacted comment
Hottest comment thread
14 Comment authors
  Follow the comments on this article.  
Notify of
Alex Argyros

Another valuable article. Thanks.

What brand fluoro do you use? For my nymphing, I generally run a 5ft. piece of 4lb. Seaguar Inizx to a tippet ring, and then 5x (and occasionally 6x) Varivas fluoro. When i I’m using a dropper, it’s a short length of tippet knotted around the Invizx above the tippet ring.

Bruce

Okay for all that you’ve written on this subject. It makes sense. But, what I don’t like is the price that’s being asked flourocarbon, and the fact that it does not degrade. I don’t know if that’s true, but it’s what I’ve read. I tried using size 6x regular mono for nymphing and I lost too many flies to the rock Gods. My buddy and I tried 6x in skinny water one summer. We both decided we’d rather catch less fish (if that’s the case), then lose a dozen flies every trip. Do you think 6x flouro holds up better… Read more »

John Staley

In Alex’s message above he mentions that he uses tippet rings. My favorite guides are divided on their use. I would enjoy hearing your opinion on them. Which also brings up the question of preferred knots for fluoro connections, which knots are the most reliable? Always appreciate your insight in the articles you post.

Phil Foster

Domenick, Still enjoying your articles, keep up the good work. When I started fly fishing there were no knotless tapered leaders and all were knotted in various configurations. In 1966 I purchased an Orvis leader tying kit which I believe was made up of spools of Mason hard mono. In a few years as the spools went empty I started to replace the different sizes with Maxima and never turned back. I used knotless tapered leaders off and on but alway went back to my hand tied leaders. After five decades of tying up every type of leader possible with… Read more »

Phil Foster

Domenick , Thank you. So true. The five reasons that cause leader tangles in multifly rigs and their solutions to my way of thinking follow. The first four can be, as we said in heavy industry, engineered out. 1) Improper leader construction. Any leader design must be done with the prevention of hinging or bending in any part of the leader. The leader is designed to operate in a continuous and clean transfer of energy from line to flies, whether slack or tight line casts depending on desired outcome. Yes, I fish multi dry fly rigs with a slack line… Read more »

Gary Hannah

The quality of you research is very good I appreciate all the time you put into you articles. Your published work is the most practical I have seen on the internet,

Luke

Domenick, Great article! Thanks for putting this out there. Tippet material is something that I find myself thinking about a lot. One thing that I noticed you didn’t mention is the density of fluoro vs nylon. I take it that was intentional. The vast majority written on the subject of fluoro vs nylon for nymphing makes a big deal about the density of fluoro and the resulting sink rate. I’ve personally always been skeptical of the practical difference this really makes. Once you’ve tied a 3mm tungsten bead on, can a modest increase in line density really correlate to a… Read more »

Lou

Excellent article. I fish far less than I would like and have found your writings to be enlightening. I typically purchase 4x-5x tapered leaders in 7.5 foot length and added 3-4 feet often next size smaller tippet to that. This and other articles have given me much to consider.

Thank You!

Richard

Great article. Agree 110%. I use it here in Alaska for all submerged fishing. I do council friends to use flouro responsibly. It degrades very slowly … read that as it lasts practically … forever. It entraps/tangles/ensnares/kills wildlife longer than your lifetime when lost in snag or not rolled up and disposed properly. I see entangled alive and dead wildlife every season. I pick up and haul out line wherever/whenever I find it on the river. Don’t love your rivers to death.

Nigel

I use Stroft GTM 0.12 for everything. One spool. Simple.

jerry

Great article! Just started experimenting with using a dry fly as my indicator, tying it off my leader. I was having difficulty with the fly sinking using fluorocarbon, and “dunking” the fly before making a new cast. Cliff notes answered a question about nylon vs floro for dries.
Thank you for your helpful information on fly fishing. My knowledge base has grown tremendously because of your honest tips and tactics

Domenick, Your articles are always enlightening. Thank you for all the time you put into writing your columns and to your readers for joining the discussions.

Bob Posliff

I know the focus is not on Stillwater but when fishing any floating fly on a flat surface the tippet next to the fly must be degreased so it will sink and not create a distraction on the surface next to the fly.

Bill J Sherer

No offense, but you still have not answered the question of the fact that Fluorocarbon lasts somewhere around 5000, to 100,000 years in our environment, (according to the information I have found online), whereas most Nylon lasts between 5 and 15 years. I’m not comfortable knowing I am contributing to the destruction of our waterways by using Fluorocarbon line. We, (fly anglers especially), should be stewards of our environment and should show the best practices for others to follow and emulate as much as possible. I am still not convinced the benefits of Fluorocarbon line outweigh the effects it has… Read more »

Domenick Swentosky
BELLEFONTE, PA

Hi. I'm a father of two young boys, a husband, author, fly fishing guide and a musician. I fish for wild brown trout in the cool limestone waters of Central Pennsylvania year round. This is my home, and I love it. Friends. Family. And the river.

STICKERS
STICKERS
TAGS
Central PA snags tiny flies Sawyer tips Oakiewear spawning split shot Burke comp fishing Davy Wotten high water fly fsihing Boat silence casting river History Dylan Namer regulations tight line nymphing brookies Sighter tracks It's just fishing dog Dad public land fluke etiquette tightline Joey Fifty Tips waders come on man angler types Grobe brown trout Harvey Pusher montana Discovery efficiency PSA favorite Whiskey drifting Pennsylvania walking Grandfather rules time big fish Camping brush fishing Gierach flies hiking Fly Casting beadhead simplicity catch and release gear swinging safety explore Memories mono rig nymphs mayfly nymphing Weather nymphing tips Stockies small streams wet wading winter fly fishing Galloup ice Headbanger Sculpin Jeff spot burning flood float wading boots wet fly fishing dry fly fishing surf fishing net Euro-Nymphing strategy Aiden Wild Brown Trout George Harvey Floating winter carp fly patterns Mystery wading fall Ask an Expert knots stocked trout TU tippet fly tying Whiskey Drinker Orvis Quote bar boots George Daniel Float Fishing friendship summertime fishing Tippet Rings Wild vs Stocked tight lining stinky bass Little Juniata River posted land suspender fishing night-sighter Industry Stuff Christmas Lights philosophy mud trout bum PFBC travel conservation solitude Spring Creek Streamer fishing thunderstorm fly rod Fly Fishing dry flies front ended backcountry leaders traction summer Buggers dead drift patience winter fishing mousing fly box saltwater rookies tenkara Baseball indicator fishing How it Started Dry-Dropper DJS wildlife Peace photography PA Gold Night Fishing Fish Hard fighting fish the Mono Rig droppers shark DIY last cast Big Trout Trout Unlimited streamside camera fly line club fishing dorsey yarn indicator indicator nymphing science matters big brown trout Night Fishing Chapters Fly rods mistakes Streamers bite windows home-stream Doh wild trout Wild Mushrooms wet flies Presentations drop shot nymphing cookout fishing tips fishing with kids DHALO Trust skunked Resources One Great Tip BES friends Plans marginal water family Press falling in Troutbitten Fly Box Backing Barrel rigs Bad Mother reading water giveaway boys musician Rich backcast LBI Night