For Tight Line Nymphing and the Mono Rig, What’s a Good Fly Rod?

by | Oct 14, 2016 | 9 comments

Nymphing is usually the best way to meet trout on their own terms. Throughout the seasons, simple nymph patterns catch the most fish. That’s especially true here in the fertile limestone spring creeks of Central Pennsylvania, but no matter where I’ve fished (whether a tailwater, freestone or limestone river) nymphing produces the best numbers. And often, a dialed-in and directed nymphing game will also produce the best size. The biggest and best fish are underneath, so that’s where I put my flies. With so much time logged having a nymph at the end of the line, what’s the best fly rod for nymphing?

As the river changes, so does my strategy for approaching fish and getting a fly to them. From season to season, from day to day, and from seam to seam, changing and adapting to the conditions is the most important variable for success. On a late summer morning, I may need a pair of small nymphs cast into broken water at the head of a pocket. The following week, after a bit of rain, the same fish may be more responsive to a larger stonefly pattern or maybe a streamer paired with a small nymph. I’ve come to know what changes are required on my favorite stretches of water. And I enjoy adapting my rig (the flies and leader) for what will best catch a trout.

These things may change: the size and type of flies, the tippet length and diameter, the addition or subtraction of a suspender. But one thing remains constant as I wade upstream into the current — my fly rod.


Photo by Chris Kehres

While wading, I use the same fly rod all day long. If it was convenient to carry a second or third rod, or if the truck was closer than it usually is, I think I’d still rather use one tool to get the job done. I’ve tried various methods for carrying two rods, and I’m convinced that there’s no system efficient enough to satisfy me. As I pull on my waders and lace up my boots, I make a decision: Which fly rod will I take? For me, it’s a simple choice between my two main rods. I use the 4 weight when I think I’ll mostly be nymphing and the 5 weight when I expect to have a good reason to cast some larger streamers.

I’ve come to believe that the Mono Rig is the best choice for nearly all subsurface fishing. You can read my argument for this in the article, The Mono Rig and Why Fly Line Sucks. To summarize, a super-long mono leader gives me more control over presentation by removing the unnecessary mass of a fly line, dramatically cutting down on the negative effects of drag. With the Mono Rig, I have improved strike detection and better command over the direction of the drift. I can stay tight to my flies, streamer or suspender. So I choose a fly rod that casts the Mono Rig in all the different ways that I use it: with light to heavy nymphs, small to large streamers, tight line and with a suspender.


This is why we fish. Photo by Pat Burke

Do you need a specialized fly rod?


I’m happy to tell you that I’ve been able to fish the Mono Rig on every fly rod that I’ve ever strung it up. With just a little adjustment to the casting stroke, you can make it work. Of course, some rods are more fit for the job than others.

What fly rod?

I think it’s important first to realize what your own needs are. Maybe you’re not interested in casting suspender rigs or streamers. In that case, a light competition-style fly rod may be your best choice. The comp rods, or other rods marketed as Euro-Nymphing fly rods, are long and light. Rarely do they exceed a 4 weight, and 2 or 3 weights are common. The lighter rods can be easier on your arm and shoulder if you’re drifting through seams all day with an outstretched arm.

The lighter weight rods also load easier, so the minimal weight of the leader (Mono Rig) can actually flex a 3 weight rod more than a 5 weight rod. That can be helpful if you are casting very light nymphs at long distances, but it can make casting difficult when you add a suspender or switch to heavier nymphs or streamers.

I’ve also found some of the lighter weight competition rods to lack the backbone that I want for fighting bigger trout. You can land just about any size trout on any weight rod if you play the fish right, but many of the lighter rods bend too deeply into the butt section for me. Some of them don’t have the power that I want for quickly fighting large trout in heavy currents.

Fly Rod Flex

Slower, full-flex fly rods don’t suit my own, impatient style. I like a medium-fast rod for all methods of fishing, and the slower rods don’t work for me.

When you ditch the fly line and switch over to the Mono Rig, slower action rods can feel more natural because they load easier — the leader itself makes them flex. But a fast 5 weight rod can efficiently cast light nymphs too, with the right casting stroke — it just feels different because the rod doesn’t load as much. I find the flex of a rod to be a very personal choice; it’s different for everyone.

Fly Rod Length

Length, however, is more universal. Going a bit longer is one of the best things you can do for your nymphing game. It’s startling how much reach you gain with an extra 6 inches on the rod tip. I can’t explain the geometry of it all, but an extra foot of rod length extends your reach much further than just 12 inches into the current.

Anything less than 9 feet is a little short for the Mono Rig. Going over 10 feet is great for the added reach, but keep in mind that longer rods usually flex more. Again, it’s a personal choice.


Photo by Chris Kehres

The Point

To fish the Mono Rig and get into tight line nymphing, you probably don’t need more than the rod that you already have. Most fly rods will get the job done, and many standard, popular rods are perfect for it.

As you experiment with tight line tactics and become comfortable with the Mono Rig, you’ll discover how far you want to take it. Adding a suspender is easy and allows you to fish types of water that you can’t effectively tight line. Switching from nymphs to streamers is also easy, and the added weight makes the Mono Rig a breeze to cast. Lighter rods are well suited for tight lining average nymphs. Heavier rods will make casting suspender and streamer rigs more comfortable and efficient. Once you decide what you want to do with the Mono Rig, you will find your own point of compromise.

My Choices

I’ve purposely avoided recommending any specific fly rod brands or models here because I really don’t think the choice is that important. Regardless, here are the rods my Troutbitten friends and I use.

Since the Mono Rig is my choice for all subsurface fishing, I choose a little heavier rod than I would if I were to be exclusively tight lining average sized nymphs.

I learned to tight line on an 8’6” St. Croix Avid 5 weight because that’s what I had, and I still love the mono rig on that rod. I use it for all my night fishing and on small streams.

Later, I got a great deal on a 9’6” Sage Z-Axis 4 weight, and that’s my primary rod.

When I start casting streamers, I wish the Z was a little more stout. And when I’m casting light nymphs, I wish the Avid had just a bit more flex. But each fly rod does the job of presenting both extremes, and the sweet spot is somewhere in the middle. It’s a compromise.

I wish both rods were a little longer. For my fishing, I think a 10 foot 5 weight might be the right tool, and some of the best fishermen I hang out with use one. A good 10 foot 5 weight handles suspenders and streamers better than my other rods and yet still casts lighter rigs well enough.

Don’t Wait

Buying a specialized fly rod for tight lining and fishing the Mono Rig just isn’t necessary. If you want to spend some money on a new rod then do it. But you don’t need the latest tech-dry shirt to go for a run. You don’t need a carbon-fiber frame in between the tires to enjoy a bike ride. And you don’t need anything more than your own fly rod to start slinging around the Mono Rig. Have fun. Catch fish.


Photo by Pat Burke


Enjoy the day.
Domenick Swentosky

More Troutbitten articles on nymphs:

The Mono Rig and Why Fly Line Sucks
Tight Line Nymph Rig
Sighters: Seven Separate Tools
Learn the Nymph
Tags and Trailers
The Backing Barrel
Take Five
The Add-On Line
One Great Nymphing Trick
The Trouble With Tenkara — And Why You Don’t Need It
It’s a Suspender — Not Just and Indicator
Stop the Split Shot Slide
Trail This — Don’t Trail That
For Tight Line Nymphing and the Mono Rig, What’s a Good Fly Rod?
Depth, Angle, Drop: Three Elements of a Nymphing Rig
Over or Under? Your best bet on weight
Modern Nymphing, the Mono Rig, and Euro Nymphing

Share This Article . . .

Since 2014 and 700+ articles deep
Troutbitten is a free resource for all anglers.
Your support is greatly appreciated.

– Explore These Post Tags –

Domenick Swentosky

Central Pennsylvania

Hi. I’m a father of two young boys, a husband, author, fly fishing guide and a musician. I fish for wild brown trout in the cool limestone waters of Central Pennsylvania year round. This is my home, and I love it. Friends. Family. And the river.

More from this Category



In short, turnover gives us freedom to choose what happens with the line that’s tethered to the fly. How does the tippet and leader land? With contact or with slack? And where does it land? In the seam and partnered with the fly, or in an adjacent current? By having mastery of turnover, we dictate the positioning of not just the fly, but the leader itself. And nothing could be more important . . .

Regarding Classic Upstream Nymphing

Regarding Classic Upstream Nymphing

Classic upstream nymphing feels a lot like fishing dry flies. The challenge of making precision casts is there; it can be employed at extra distance if necessary, and it’s most often performed with tight loops and light flies than don’t change the cast.

While pure tight line nymphing is performed with no line on the water, classic upstream nymphing does the opposite.

Then there’s the induced take and floating the sighter . . .

The Case for Shorter Casts

The Case for Shorter Casts

Find water you can fish close up, and work on deadly accurate casting. You’ll find that, when fishing shorter, you can fish harder. Instead of hoping a trout eats or wishing for a strike, the kind of precision possible at short range lets you make something happen with intention . . .

When Drifting Low Isn’t Low Enough

When Drifting Low Isn’t Low Enough

The next time your beautiful dead drifts are ignored in the strike zone, consider getting dirtier. Sure, you’ll stick some rocks and tree parts down there. You’ll lose more flies and waste more time retrieving snags. But you may quickly find more trout in the net too. Live on the bottom for a while, and see what happens . . .

Six Knots to Know for Trout Anglers on the Fly

Six Knots to Know for Trout Anglers on the Fly

One simple thing can change an angler’s enjoyment and success on the water, maybe more than any other — knot tying skill. But I meet too many otherwise excellent fly anglers who complain about knots or lament the amount of time it takes to make tactical transitions on the river.

You need six knots. Two, really — and then four more to fill in some technical stuff . . .

What do you think?

Be part of the Troutbitten community of ideas.
Be helpful. And be nice.


  1. To me a 5wt seems so heavy (and 9’6″ seems short), I have one but it’s now my bass rod. I fish either a 10′ or 11′ 3wt and have been wishing for an 11′ 2wt. Handling big fish is no problem. Maybe because I got back into fly fishing with Tenkara and wispy 14′ rods seem normal to me. I’ve landed a few 20″+ trout and a few bigger carp on mine. But you don’t need to take my word for it. I’m sure you know #troutyeah… his Grey’s 2wt has landed several lifetime’s worth of trophy fish. He certainly doesn’t baby them. Admittedly his skill plays a big part in that.

    What I like about the long/light rods (besides saving my arm/back) is the versatility. The reach is a must have. And I completely agree about carrying more than 1 rod (sucks, hate it) and nymphing being the most effective. So while my rig is obviously optimized for nymphing, if need be I can still cast a little puff of CdC with my nymphing leader. And while it’s not particularly satisfying to “sling meat” it will lob a sculpin if I need to.

    One important consideration you didn’t mention was what reel… I used to think they didn’t matter much at all until I got the 11′ rod. You need one big enough to balance these longer rods. Don’t size it to the line or fish. A Hardy DD7000 seems huge compared to the average trout reel, but it perfectly balances my 11’er and has the added bonus a fast retrieve and it keeps my mono from getting too curly. Balance is really important with these long rods… they are downright unpleasant if paired with too small of a reel.

    And on the theme of bigger is better… carry a big net too. I laughed when I first saw Josh’s. But I” now a believer. Makes landing fish (big or small) with these long rods way easier and faster. Which is good for all involved. The 17″x22″ Frabill is the ticket.

    • Right on. Thanks for the input, Mark. Sounds like the standard competition setup. I fish a lot of suspender rigs and throw a pair of streamers a good bit. With the extra long and light rods I just feel undergunned when I do that. And for anyone getting into tight lining and the mono rig you don’t really need a special rod. That’s the point.

  2. Good points, Dominic. There are a ton of people who continue to out-think themselves when it comes to gear. I’ve always been a St. Croix fan and I built myself an SCIV/SCII last year and I love it. I guess it’s a moderate-fast blank, and it’s 9 feet long. It’s a bit wobbly at the tip, which I guess means it doesn’t damp well, stop shaking at the tip? But, to me, it’s a great nymphing rod and throws a dry fly equally well. I can also fish smaller streamers like woolly buggers. I actually have a Grey’s Streamflex 3/4 wt. ike Mark mentions above. I believe, that’s 10 feet long. I took it out West one year and I liked it, but I found myself grabbing my 9-foot mostly by the end of the trip–I don’t know why. I’m not against 10-foot rods, but to me that extra foot makes a lot of difference. I would have never believed it but the extra length also makes my arm and shoulder tire more quickly.

  3. I’ve been using a Syndicate 3wt. 10ft. competition nymph rod. Tight lining with no fly line out, 2ft. section of chartreuse/pink sighter tied in above the tippet.
    This set-up works perfectly for me here in Pennsylvania as well as the Madison River in Montana.
    I have found the extra tip sensitivity of the Syndicate and its overall light weight work well for me for increased hook-ups. Also, the 3wt. has no problem handling the large trout on the upper Madison. I believe that might be due to the substantial butt section that is .380″.
    As you pointed out, it is definitely not a must have, but I think it increases the performance of the no fly line set-up for me.

    • Thanks, Greg. I’ve heard good things about those rods.

  4. One thing I always hear about long light euro nymphing rods is that the tip sections of these rods are designed specifically for shock absorption / tippet protection. Any thoughts on this versus what one would typically find in the tip section of a 10 foot 5 weight rod?

    • Hi Randy,

      Good thoughts.

      Those rods are designed for shock absorption, yes. But they are no more designed for protecting tippet than any other trout rod, necessarily. Long line nymphing requires no thinner or weaker tippet than other styles of nymphing. So there’s no need for a special rod to protect tippet more than normal. But the shock absorption factor is a built in feature to those rods, yes. And that’s because competition fishermen want to be sure to land every trout, even the small ones. And a flexible tip helps keep the comp angler from “bouncing” a hooked trout. This is one of those areas where the competition scene drives the mass market. I don’t much care if I lose small fish, and I imagine that you don’t either. The flexy tips on those rods struggle to push larger patterns like streamers. They make long lining with an indicator a chore, and even make some dry dropper setups more difficult than it should be. So I usually like a rod that is NOT developed for “euro nymphing.” I like a more well rounded rod, as I wrote about above. Specialized tools are too limiting, to me.



  5. I’m curious, now that 2016 is a long way back, have your thoughts about rod selection changed? What’s your go-to rod today?

    • Hi Alex,

      Good question. First, you can find my favorite gear in the Menu > Shop > Recommended Gear. There’s a shot description of each of my favorite rods and why.

      What I want in a fly rod hasn’t changed much, but the offerings have. In general, there’s a wider variety of good nymphing rods out there now. Many (most) of the early rods that catered to tight line and euro tactics had soft tips that just flexed too much and did not recover fast enough for my needs. As you know, I do a lot of different things on the Mono Rig. And I want a rod (and leader) that is powerful enough to also be versatile. We have that now. Companies like Orvis, Hardy, T&T and Sage are building a full range of nymphing rods. For me, it’s their 4 weights that usually do the trick.

      For years, it was the Sage Z Axis that I couldn’t find a replacement for. Now, my favorite rod is a Hardy Ultralite 10 foot 4 weight.



Submit a Comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Recent Articles

Recent Posts

Domenick Swentosky

Central Pennsylvania

Hi. I’m a father of two young boys, a husband, author, fly fishing guide and a musician. I fish for wild brown trout in the cool limestone waters of Central Pennsylvania year round. This is my home, and I love it. Friends. Family. And the river.

Pin It on Pinterest